The Spanish island Mallorca is often under estimated. Its soso party image doesn’t reflect the beauty of the island, its picturesque small villages and of course its vast variety of routes and crags. Mallorca offers nearly everything a rock climber is able to imagine: demanding sports climbing routes with pockets and slabs, multipitch routes in Sa Gubia or lots of deep water soloing spots for warm summer days. As everything is well protected UK climbers might miss trad routes.
At the time of writing there are 63 different crags spread all over the island. Therefore its hard to decide where to stay. If you want to see as much crags as possible it is best to rent a finca in the middle of the island near Inca. If you are also interested in combining climbing with culture, good food and nightlife, Palma is the best choice. But it is also a good idea to stay close to one of the beautiful turquoise beaches in the south or the east of Mallorca.
A trip to Mallorca is very well combinable with a trip to the more laid back island of Menorca. Menorca has some very nice crags which are very close to the see.
Mallorcas Top Sport Climbing Crags
Cala Magraner combines a very scenic spot right beside a blue beach with a pocketed wall with beautiful sport routes in all grades. This spot es especially good to enjoy your holiday in winter months.
Tijuana (Santanyi) is also one of the best spots in the south. The routes are of good quality on a yellow wall right above the sea. They start mostly very steep and continue with sophisticated technical moves. Check out Colesteral Party (6a+), Trencalosques (6a+) and Miquels (7b). Please double-check bolts and anchors as always when climbing next to the sea.
Sa Gubia is an impressive amphitheatre with walls up to 200 m surrounding the spot. Sa Gubia has more than 130 sports and multipitch lines. The easy and bolted multipitch of Albahida is very popular. We recommend climbing some of the 3 to 4 pitches routes on the opposite wall.
La Creveta and Es Fumat: The technical routes as well as the spectacular views on the peninsula Formentor makes these two sectors worth while a visit. Combine climbing in these sectors in the afternoon before heading to watch the sunset at the lighthouse on cape Formentor. The climbing offers especially good routes in french 6 grades.
Valldemosa is just one of many easy to reach climbing places in the Tramuntana mountains. It offers a good selection of middle grade routes and great views over the village, the port and the sea.
Fraguel is a world-class crag for advanced climbers in the Tramuntana Mountains.
New Climbing Crags: Caimari near Inca has nice routes in all grades. The wall is mostly vertical wall and slabby. Sa Mola de Felanitx was rebolted and got lots of new routes too. It is one of the best spots for easy and middle grade routes. The nearby old wine cellar is also worthwhile a visit. Ca’s Catalá isn’t that new but not very known. It is near Palma. The routes are mostly technical. Torre d’en Beau is a new spot next to Tijuana. It offers unpolished routes from the same quality.
Deep Water Soloing (DWS)
Mallorca offers tons of deep water soloing places for hot summer days and calls itself the best DWS spot in Europe. Checkout the Rockfax guidebook.
Other things to do
That’s the good thing about Mallorca. Bring your whole family or a bunch of friends. Because Mallorca offers a lot more than just rock climbing and DWS. The Tramuntana mountains range is famous for hiking, cycling and caving. The north with its picturesque villages like Deia and Soller is great for a road trip. Cape Formentor is just spectacular. On the other hand Mallorca offers some of the most beautiful beaches of the mediteranean sea. Enjoy the evenings by strolling through the old town of Palma and Pollenca and have dinner in one of the numerous good restaurants. Nightlife in Palma is also great. Avoid the party area of Arenal beach unless you know you want to go there.
Accommodation for Mallorca Rock Climbing
We recommend not to book a package trip to Mallorca. With airbnb, home away or booking you will get access to beautiful fincas, nice old town city condos or cosy flats.
Getting there and around
Most european airports offer very cheap flights all year round to Mallorca. Prices start at 120 EUR.
You will need a rental car for reaching out the climbing crags and doing your sightseeing. Rental cars a very cheap in Mallorca. Prices start from 15 EUR a day.