Climbing Finale Ligure, Italy

Huge! Great playground for Climbers and Mountainbikers.
Easy Routes : 25
Medium Routes: 45
Hard Routes: 30
Airport: Genua, Nizza, Turin
Crag Approach: 5 min - 1:30 hr
Next City: Genua
Other Highlights:
  • Close to Nice Beach
  • Excellent Hikings
  • Extraordinary Nature
  • Nice MTB Trails
  • Best time: Sep - May

    Finale Ligure is a commune in Liguria, north-west Italy famous for plenty of sports climbing routes as well as Mountainbiking/Freeriding for already about 30 years. White limestone rock is popping out of the landscape, the high rockface of Lacremá with this cute, old village beside it, Noli, the old fisherments village with the windswept sea … On top of that, Finale is known for its white sandy beaches, part of the Italian Riviera. Before you dream yourself away, here are some facts if you’d like to spend your next climbing holiday in northern Italy.

    Climbing Finale Ligure

    If you look at the backcountry standing on Finales beach, you will see the majestic mountain Monte Cucco with a NATO Base on top. All the rock you can see left or right of it, is waiting to be explored with rope and quickdraws. 22 crags with more than 2000 routes in good quality limestone are waiting for your. In case you worry about getting bored after you tried all of them: There are 1000 routes more some kilometres left of Finale Ligure, in Otro Finale. 😉

    Btw: I bought the 550 sided Climbing Guide in 2012. It took me four years until I managed to get there the first time. But now I’ve visited this great playground for Climbing and Mountainbiking already three times.  You will always find a sector having sun or shade, so you can climb in Finale all year round.

    Routes are mainly vertical and the sports climbing ones up to 40 meters high.

    Our favorite climbing crag: Rocca die Corno

    Very diverse routes in steep, sintered red wall. Most of them are quite knew and safely bolted. Sector Futura and Sudest offer a lot of different kind of routes: slab, cracks, intersections and overhangs.

    Our favourite sector is Zona Rossa. Long routes from 20 to 40 meter, impressive, red rock and a lot of recently bolted routes. You have a great view over the valley to the sea and it is warm also in the evening or in winter (5c to 7b)

    If you are based in Finale Ligure Camping, access the crag by bike. It takes you 35 minutes up (if you are in good conditions) and half the time back home.

    Why not Monte Cucco?

    Monte Cucco is one of the most famous climbing crags – and was the first one built in 1968 – in Finale Ligure. That’s why we spent a night and a day there. The place is really nice: A small parking space, where wild camping is tolerated, and a picnic place in the woods. But there are a lot of people and the rock sometimes very polished. We can recommend camping there only off-season, as the hygienic state of the one WC and shower on the parking space is hard to stand in summer.

     

    Rest Days

    Mountainbiking

    Don’t have to be rest days here. Mountainbiking and Downhilling is big in Finale Ligure. Whether you like to do trips on your on and cycle mountains up and down or if you prefer being shuttled to Monte Cucco for several variations of Downhill: You won’t get enough of it! All trails are perfectly signed with different icons, so you don’t get lost. Small bikemaps are sold in every Campground, Sport Stores and the Tourist information.

    MTB Finale Ligure

    Hiking

    As the mountainbike routes are mostly great trails, you can also go hiking the same path. The area is beautiful, you pass old villages with yammi italian restaurants.

    Bathing

    Ähm yes, there are beaches right in Finale Ligure. Even we’ve been there three times, we didn’t manage to go swimming once. Climbing and Biking took too much of our time. 🙂 But still: The water is clear, the beach sandy.Finale Ligure view

     

    Accommodation in Finale Ligure

    There are three official Campgrounds in Finale. We’ve been to Eurocamping, the biggest ones with a pool and lot’s of space. So ideal for families. And we’ve been to Camping Mulino, a small campground close to the city on a small hill. Very cozy with lots of biker and climbers around you. 🙂 You can not go there with a car bigger as a Sprinter, the road and the place is too narrow.

    Wild Camping is not allowed also tolerated on Monte Cucco.

    Beside that you find Hotels in Finale and Finalborgo (a few minutes north of Finale).

     

    Getting there and around

    Finale Ligure is situated on hour west of Genua and 2 hours south of Turin and 1:30 hours east of Nizza. So close to a lot of cities but you still need a car to get there. You might not need in when you base yourself in Finale or Finalborgo, as there are several crags around you can reach by bike. But if you stay longer than one week or like to explore the less frequented sectors, a car is recommended. Beware of thiefs though!

     

    Images in the text from WIPPart and CucombreLibre via Flickr.

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